The rock platforms, the real system
The whole Sliema seafront is lined with flat limestone slabs, fitted with metal ladders for getting in and out of the water, and in places showers and bars. This is the Maltese daily swim and it works far better than it sounds: the water is deep immediately, clean, and there is never the crush of a sandy beach. A towel on the rock and you are set.
Fond Ghadir and Exiles
These are the two most-used stretches of the Sliema seafront. Exiles, on the Tigné side, has a small pebble cove in addition to the platforms, plus ladders and a bar. Fond Ghadir, a little further along, is wider and quieter. Both are walkable from anywhere in Sliema and do the job of a beach for a morning.
St George's Bay, the only sand
In Paceville itself, a small man-made sandy beach ringed by hotels. It is convenient, especially after a night out, because you can walk there half asleep from your apartment. It is also small and very busy by day: at midday in August you walk on towels. For an hour of recovery it does the job; for a real beach day you go north.
What to bring
Water shoes or sandals that stay on: the rock is uneven and sometimes slippery on the way out. A thick towel, because you are lying on limestone. And nothing else: the bars are right there in Sliema, and there are showers at several points along the front.
Sea urchins and jellyfish
Sea urchins live in the less-used rocky stretches. They are not dangerous but a spine in the foot ruins a week: water shoes settle it. Jellyfish come in episodes, mainly in late summer and depending on the wind, and the Maltese warn each other. If nobody is swimming somewhere that is usually busy, there is a reason.
The best time
Early morning, between seven and nine, when the light is good and the platforms are empty. It is also the only window when the water is flat before the boats start. Late afternoon, between six and eight, is the Maltese slot after work, and the atmosphere alone is worth the walk.